参观故宫已是第十次了。从照片上看,三十年前即便暑假故宫似乎也并无太多游客。记忆犹新的是1999年冬天参观,恰逢大雪初晴,整个故宫游客似乎不超过百人。路面均被大雪掩盖,硕大的广场上仅有余一人的足迹留下。这般景象自然是再难重现了。为了能寻访故宫各个角落的历史遗迹,也为偶尔重拾行走于故宫中沧桑感受,实在心痒时不得不加入拥挤如织的人潮中一员。今年冬天,恰分西北风、PM2.5均不甚严重之日,回到故宫随便看看。
一、文武英华
清代的大学士一职按等级尊卑分为三殿三阁,其中文华殿大学士常为实授最高等级、武英殿大学士次之。刘墉、和珅、李鸿章为文华殿大学士,洪承畴、曾国藩为武英殿大学士。以往游故宫,多顺中轴线游览,偶尔转入珍宝馆、钟表馆,也属于瞎逛。此行时间重复,准备充足,因此首先便游览文华、武英二殿。
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二、慈仪万方
武英殿位于故宫中轴线的西南端,西北端则是为后妃居住建造的西六宫。这者之间,则是太后居所慈宁宫,和皇帝别殿养心殿。清朝似有定俗,有德高望重前辈居住的宫殿后辈多会避让以视谦逊。孝庄住的慈宁宫、乾隆住的养心殿、乾隆生母崇庆太后住的寿康宫,后来多被供奉起来。故宫最西北角,和武英殿南北对应的还有一座英华殿。
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三、垂帘听政
西六宫中的储秀宫,和东六宫中的皇极殿,皆和慈禧结下姻缘。在第二次鸦片战争和太平天国内外逼迫、咸丰皇帝撒手西去之际,慈禧能主导同治中兴,由此延续大清四十年社稷。谓其为中流砥柱,虽不中不远矣。
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四、十全武功
故宫的宝物,据说最由宋徽宗开始收集。靖康之难后被迁移至金中都,直至今日。清逊帝离宫时带走的几十箱细软、后国府迁台时又带走名贵书画和古玉、章玺,期间动荡时期还多有流失,不期至今还有如此之众。珍宝馆位于皇极殿中,分珠宝、金银、玉石数馆展示珍品。
故宫历代帝王中,属乾隆留下印迹最重 – 居住时间最长,手笔也最大(按年份算,乾隆在紫禁城御极六十三年,但如果按日子算,其中多半在圆明园、木兰、出巡。恐怕远比不上在位四十八年,几乎从不出宫的明万历皇帝)。养心殿是其毕生所爱,自然是装饰得精美绝伦。皇极殿虽然从未使用,却也按照太上皇的规格彻底翻新。乾隆还好写,匾额、楹联,大块文章,故宫中比比皆是。乾隆一生追求完美,却不知千百年之弊病,非新制度、新技术,绝无根治可能。乾隆励精图治所创“饥饿的盛世”(张宏杰书名),在其尚未去世时便早已摇摇欲坠。
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五、譬如北辰
一大圈逛回来,回到午门已是下午二、三点钟。北京冬日的太阳好像爬不动似的,大中午的也才升到半高,这会儿已经摇摇欲沉了。眼看这幅景象,不由也加快了脚步。中轴线上的六个大殿,以及后花园,来过十次便看过十遍。好在除了越来越拥挤外,也并无什么改变之处。
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这次参观故宫,特意选在冬季游客最少的时间。从早上十点不到“进宫”,下午三点半离开,总共五个半小时,把主要的经典几乎看全了 – 如果不是寒流下加速放电,再坚持个把小时,应该遍历各处了。至此还剩两个心愿,一则是想一睹宋代以来的著名书法和画卷,其二听说养心殿已经修整随时可以开放。毕竟博大精深如故宫般,善始善终反倒不如留点遗憾更有意境。