泸州山水自无双,更有人杰添异光。
川渝之地广博精深,虽游览数十次仍不能穷尽。近三月来两度适足泸州,虽都是来去匆匆,亦得管窥其地理、文化、风土、美食种种,幸运如此。
泸州位于四川盆地南端、川黔交界之处。长江贯穿其境,沱江、赤水于此汇入,可谓北接天府,南通云贵。先秦之前为僰人聚落,汉代始置江阳(今泸州江阳区)。武帝曾遣中郎将唐蒙从江阳(今泸州江阳区)出发吞并夜郎国(今贵州大部),改设犍为郡。唐蒙更试图打通赤水、乌江、 牂牁江(今北盘水、珠江支流)之水陆通道,以直通南越番禺(今之广州)。泸州地势之要、历史之久,可的知也。
今日之泸州,初涉之风光几为酒厂独占。漫步老城之中,时有糟麴味迎来。而南宋神臂城抗元战场、民国蔡锷将军护国之役(今纳溪区护国公园),均有遗址可寻。此外,泸州博物馆更有蒋兆和先生生平及作品展,其一生“绘画合为时而作”。有幸目睹其《后流民图》长卷,可堪比毕加索之《格列尼卡》。而置于今日国际时局之下,阅之尤令人动容。
游览泸州,更不可辜负美食。其中锅锅宴、原味豆花、猪儿粑、白糕、均极富特色,于川菜中属别具一格。幸有当地食客陪同,得以遍尝无遗。
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